It’s your life. Make it work.

I had three sons. No daughter. (a six-word memoir)

Time out, time in, time out.

Have fun, give hugs, get love.

 Breathe in. Breathe out. Move on. (Jimmy Buffet)

Take a shower and get clean. (good advice)

Um, six words can’t encapsulate me.

I only live for the moment.

He said, she said, who cares?

Too little and far too late.

And eventually we all will die.

The mailman brings me bills. Damn.

Wherever he goes, black clouds follow.

It’s the summer of my life.

It’s hard now, but easy later.

Where should we go? To Mars?

Let them eat cake. Me too.

I found happiness in my heart.

When will I ever learn? Tomorrow?

“Life’s a bitch, get over it.”

“I’m not very good at this.”

“I don’t know, do you know?”

I dance like I am invisible.

Six words are not nearly enough.

Time’s change, People change, That’s life.

 

I was a teacher. Not now.

Always create, have fun, die later. (philosophy)

Work hard. Take chances. Can’t hurt.

 

The thing surfers like best, after the thrill of surfing itself, is thinking about surfing, talking about surfing, planning which break to visit next, and buying surfboards and gear.  Surfers will visit a large number of websites to learn when the tides are high or when the tides are low, the water temperature and conditions—warm and glassy being the most preferable, of course. Surfers will tell you about the peak of the breaking wave, the height of the wave face, time between waves (interval), swell direction, on or off shore winds (I still get those two confused), the need for full length wet suits or wearing a shorty, or best yet, when there is no wet suit necessary at all, sometimes referred to as “trunkin’ it.”

Hang with a surfer long enough and you’ll hear them talk about pumping the wave, shredding the wave, or gliding with it. They will tell you about the closeouts, the mushy waves, and the speed and power of the waves. Oh, and there is the rush they experience on the wave they did get, conversely the wave they missed because they should have made two more paddles, the perfect wave they should have gotten, but someone dropped in on them; the rocks they avoided (or unfortunately didn’t avoid), what specific board is right for the waves at a particular moment or break, and other diatribes about this amazingly difficult, but super fun and addictive sport.

Surfers come in all shapes and sizes, genders, ages, classes, professions, species, and they hail from all over the globe. All the surfers I have met care deeply about the sport. Most of them care deeply about the ocean and beaches where they surf as well. Good on ya, people.

I can tell you with absolute certainty and personal experience, that surfers get grumpy when they have been out of the water too long. What is too long? In my husband Greg’s case it’s three days; a week is really pushing the envelope for most of them. If they are anywhere near a surf break there is a magnetic draw pulling them in. We’ve been known to put on the brakes in the middle of the road in order to look at the water. “Look at that! There’s surf down there. That looks like a good wave, doesn’t it to you, Susie?” While for me, I’m worrying about the cars coming from behind us around the bend. This annoys Greg and he condescendingly reassures me that before slamming on the brakes and halting (abruptly) to gaze at the surf, he has looked behind to make sure nobody is coming. But geez, sometimes it is so dangerous, and I am rather annoyed with him for stopping. Then again, it is sometimes safer to stop than it is to continue driving in one direction while completely staring in an entirely different direction, especially on a winding, coastal highway on a narrow curve, where the cliffs are steep.

When a surfer has had what s/he believes to be a perfect ride, anyone within ear shot is in for it. “Did you see that killer ride I got?” The telling of the ride goes on for a considerable length of time, most often lasting much longer than the ride itself.

“How nice for you,” I might interject, or maybe I’ll just tune out altogether and begin mentally planning our next meal or shopping trip, making note of what ingredients I may need to buy. I’m in my own little world while the surfer is blissfully recounting each turn, acceleration, power of the wave, the height of it, how long it lasted, and the feeling of pure joy in the riding of it. It’s not that I’m not interested. I am. Really I am. But there are occasions when I just want to scream. There are other topics worthy of consideration aren’t there? Well no, apparently there are not. Not for a dedicated surfer. Like I said, surfers like to surf, to think about surf, to talk about it and to plan their next surf trip.

Oh, and by the way, surfboards break. At some point the surfer will be in need of a new surfboard—one longer, or shorter, or somewhere in between. There are many types of boards. There is a definite science to picking a board shape and size. Basically, you have your longboard, shortboard, gun, fish, fun board, (they aren’t all fun?) or hybrid.

Among many other decisions, how to glass the board, plus what design and color(s) to chose will undoubtedly come into play. Whether you are having a custom board made just for you or buying one off the rack, be forewarned: this decision takes time. Lots of time.  After all the choices have been made, you are ready to make your purchase. Wait! Not so fast! You must also buy a new bag for the new board, a new leash, new fins and some more wax.

Oh well. At least it isn’t golf.